What to remember from Fashion Week and menswear in 2022
A season of fashion shows is a shower of trends, but it's also a series of mini artistic performances, a demonstration of know-how, a manifesto on our times and the spirit of the times. You don't have the time nor the desire to follow all the parades? Here's what to remember from this Men's Fashion Week.
1. The show you won't forget
As Virgil Abloh, one of the most prominent stylists of his time left us last November, Louis Vuitton paid tribute to him during this show which is the last whose collection had been designed by the designer before his death. On the program, dancers and artists, and models dressed in masculine wedding outfits sporting large and singular angel wings on their backs. A moment suspended if we are to believe the emotional testimonies of the happy few who were able to participate in the event. When it came time to close the parade, it was Virgil Abloh's team members who appeared, wearing T-shirts in the colors of the setting sun, purple and orange. Maximum emotion.
2. Get covered.
We had already seen Kim Kardashian arrive at the MET gala with her face entirely covered with a black balaclava, an outfit signed Balenciaga which enveloped her whole body, like a superhero suit. This notion of a covered face, probably influenced by the pandemic and the wearing of a mask, has won the imagination of other creators. The Belgian Walter Van Beirendonck, for example, also integrated it into his collection and presented models with a fully covered face. Not sure that this trend will take to the streets, but it challenges and it says a lot about our new relationship to others, and to our appearance.
3. The model does the show
By parading Kyle MacLachlan and Jeff Goldblum on January 16 in Milan, The Prada brand made the buzz. It must be admitted that such icons, such artistically strong personalities have necessarily instilled power in clothing. It's not the first time that the model has created more buzz than the clothes. Since the first black models pushed onto the catwalk by Yves Saint Laurent in 1978, we also remember the first Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion shows where older women appeared, iconoclastic stars or models at the antipodes of conventional models... Not content with t bring the spotlight to its show-event, the brand is doing a nice boost for its image and transforming its show into a people event in its own right.
The video of the day :
4. Mixed is gaining ground
Mixed fashion is on the rise. As we know, too often these are fairly shapeless collections, with colors and prints designed as neutral attributes, which tend to erase identities rather than highlight them. This was not the case on the podiums this season. The men paraded in large fuchsia pink overcoats at AMI, we saw floral motifs, knotted drapes or puffed sleeves revisited at Prada: a whole series of elements borrowed from the women's wardrobe, but nevertheless treated in an ultra- male. Diversity, inclusiveness are gaining ground and allow everyone to take their place without having to eat each other and that's good news.
5. Neo-cool
After years of carefully tailored Italian suits, the tyranny of impeccably cut trousers with a center pleat is over. Designers want much cooler fashion: the pants are loose, the shirts are draped, the raincoats are worn oversized and the bottom of the shirt protrudes from the pants, under the sweater... The style in 2022 will be resolutely cool, comfortable. Here too we feel the influence of the pandemic and two years of chic codes turned upside down: no one today wants to feel restricted by their clothes, but no one wants to look scruffy . the Dior Homme collection shows great mastery of this new cool.
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