Tour du Beaufortain: story of my 7 -day hike and trace GPS

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Here is a pair of years after going around the Pierra Menta and several rackets and ski escapades, I promised to return to Beaufortain to go around.It's done now.I like Beaufortain for his contrasts between well -maintained mountain pastures and mythical peaks, the Pierra Menta in mind.

The Tour du Beaufortain is a GR Pays (GRP) which is generally traveled in 6 to 8 days even if it is possible to do it in 3 days like Aurélien.I plan to take some variants of the path without however forcing myself to a specific route.I will see day by day depending on the weather, the state of snow at altitude and the form.

Beaufortain is a derivative of the Beaufort toponym, made up of "beautiful" and "strong" which can mean a "fortified place".We know more today under this name the cheese that I tasted in shelters.And what cheese!

I start my Tour du Beaufortain de Queige, the classic starting point for the route, 105 km and 6800 m of elevation gain as negative in 7 days.

Cards, topo-guide and refuges for the Beaufortain Tour

To make the Tour du Beaufortain, you have your choice the possibility of leaving with the topo-guide published by the FFrandonnée Tour du Beaufortain or with the ign Megève cards Col des Aravis and Massif du Beaufortain Moûtiers La Plagne.

For shelters, I indicate where I slept in the story with a link to the website.You can also find the full list of lodgings and shelters on Lebeaufortain.com.

Beaufortain's Tour on video

My Beaufortain Tour in 2 minutes on video… To discover before reading the detailed story 🙂

Queige - Lachat refuge

+ 1518 m / – 566 m15,14 km 6h30

I start my walk day a little before 9:00 a.m..It's already hot.The trail rises behind the church and shares a thematic path for a short time on the Beaufortain chapels.The course cuts small mountain roads several times.

The slope is steep, very steep even in places.At 10:00 am, it is already extremely hot.The weather is scorching.Luckily, all the climb to Lake Seizures is done under the forest cover, mainly hardwoods.The lake is dry or almost.It is a peat bog and without rain, it empties like a sponge.This is the privileged field of Drosera, a small carnivorous flower.I wouldn't see her.On the other hand, the Lineguttes are out.There are everywhere.

I picnic at the hut at the end of the seizure lake.

I go north, join a track and the Bisanne forest.The forest opens, the sun bangs.The heat overwhelms me.At the Chalet de la Croix de Varzeron, I sprinkle my water cap.I was starting to hurt the skull.My intra-criminal air conditioning seemed to no longer work.It makes me feel good…

The step is not very panoramic.But from time to time between the trees, the Aravis chain is observed.It is slightly veiled by heat.The path continues full north, passes the Chamois ski lift (seizure station) and enters the Natural Reserve of La seizures-Beaufortain-Val d'Arly.A path allows you to discover it.I like this atmosphere where the forest and the peat bog share the same ecosystem.

Arriving at the Lachat refuge, I join a few ski slopes from Crest-Voland.

This is my first day of hiking with a well loaded backpack for over a year and my inguinal double hernia.A good leg to continue the rest of the Beaufortain Tour.Tomorrow, direction the Roselette refuge.The topo announces 7:30 am.

Lachat refuge - Roselette Chalet

+ 1263 m / – 983 m21,1 km 7h30

All hikers leave the refuge under 8:00 a.m. for a relatively long step in distance.Once the Red Nant stream has been crossed, the path climbs in the Covetan forest and passes under the CHARD DU BUTER (1893 m) and descent to the Col de la Lézette surrounded by the ski lifts of the seizure station.Do not look for a photo of the station, I did not take it.

Beyond the Corbet plan, the landscape opens with the backdrop of the Mont-Blanc.Dozens of paraglidists have fun with the ascending winds.I take a break at Mont Corr tower (1976 m) to watch them play with Eole.

The path continues to go up quietly until the stone cross refuge.I am not in good shape: I have pain in the feet, aches on the shoulders and the nape of the neck.I thought it would pass by being hot but it only get worse over the kilometers.But I am in the mountains and that is enough for my happiness.I pass a herd of abundance cows.

It is more than 1:00 p.m. when I arrive at the stone cross refuge;it is closed.I swallow my picnic there and then pass the Véry pass (1964 m) towards the Joly pass.On the way, I fill my gourd at a source near the path.

This portion in a balcony is magnificent.In the foreground, an audience of multicolored wild flowers with the roselette needle (2384 m) and the head of the cicle in the background (2552 m).Under the croche needle, the last stiffener puts organisms with ruded tests.As soon as I pass it, I pause for 30 minutes in a field of flowers.Bucolic atmosphere.

It's already late, I don't have to hang out.The path switches to the other side of the ridge, joins the Joly pass and descends to the roselette chalet passing before the eponymous lake.

A long stage with pretty views but also some bindots of the ski resort of seizures and contamines-Montjoie at the end of the day.

In the evening after the meal, it's Ciné Live on the Mont-Blanc massif.Everyone looks at the Dome of Miage Rosir visionary between the clouds.

Roselette chalet - Bonhomme cross refuge

+ 1019 m / – 418 m9,7 km 4h20

I leave the refuge around 7:30 am after spending an excellent night in the Roselette Chalet trailer.The trail permanently leaves the tracks of the contamines-Montjoie station by a pretty path lined with rhododendrons in bloom.Little by little, the landscape is more alpine, less cow pasture.I go through the meadows (1803 m).I remember passing here 11 years ago (already!) When I did Chamonix-Briançon in snowshoes.We were at the time mounted at the window collar.Today, I leave it aside and continue my climb to the Col du Bonhomme (2329 m).

When I overlook the Balme refuge on the Tour du Mont-Blanc, I see the horde of hikers in their ascent.His highway nickname is not a fake.At the next intersection, a little before the Jovet chalets (1920 m), the Beaufortain Tour joined the Tour du Mont-Blanc to the Croix du Bonhomme refuge and the GR5 to the Refuge du Press.

I haven't said it yet but we are at the heart of the contamines-Montjoie nature reserve.Here really begins the ascent towards the collar marked by a cabin.In the opposite slope to descend to the Saussaz, there is a big snow to pass.To reach the refuge, some small snowfields must be crossed.Nothing very bad given the oppressive heat of the last days.At this rate there, in two weeks, there will be no more.

The last laces are made under the cagnard.I am starting to have trouble enduring this warmth, I who likes to walk with temperatures less than 20 ° C.Despite the sunscreen that I spread, sunburns begin to appear on the calves and forearms.

It is 2:30 p.m. when I arrive at the refuge.It gives me time to write the story of this day while drinking a white.As I write these lines, an American asks me if there is wifi.I almost exploded with laughter but I replied politely that no.The refuge team already seems well established for the season;She is very nice in addition.Today, she has received a new fridge to replace the one who dropped and keep food for summer.

A very very beautiful step.I got my foot!After two stages inside, I, too, seem to be rode now.

Bonhomme Cross refuge - Pretend refuge

+ 1113 m / – 1073 m16,15 km 6h00

I get up at 6:00 am this morning because the stage and quite long and I hope to cross a little fauna.I won't have to wait long.Barely the breakfast swallowed than a herd of ibex lick mineral salts on rocks near the Croix du Bonhomme refuge.

I leave the sympathetic team of the refuge by the crest of the gittes which offers a hallucinating panorama on the high peaks of Beaufortain: needle of the Grand Fond (2920 m), Pointe de la Terrasse (2881 m) or the Rognais (2995 m).

I join the Col de la Sauce (2307 m) and descends by the pasture track while leaving aside the Lai plan refuge to reach the D902 up to a pin marked at 1906 m on the IGN map.

Why take a portion of the departmental?To recover the variant of the Beaufortain Tour which rises by the Combe de la Neuva.I have already passed there twice, winter and summer, on the rise as on the descent.I also know the classic route of the Beaufortain Tour which passes over Lake Roselend and I prefer the path of the Combe de la Neuva.I therefore go up to the Cormet de Roselend and engage on a track.After 45 minutes of ascent, doubt settles.I open the card and immediately realize that I took a track too early.In my memory, it was not necessary to go to the Cormet de Roselend to enter the Combe de la Neuva.Big error on my part.Like what, it is not necessary to trust your memory all the time.I would have done better to open the card at the intersection.

I eat my snack at the water holder that marks the entrance to the Combe de la Neuva (1999 m).I often turn around to admire the Mont-Blanc.There is no need to say, this mountain looks like.The ascent to the Grand Fond pass (2671 m) is long and progressive.Beyond the lacquers who adjoin the path, we must continue the progression in a nevé until the pass.

Part of the group of Vosges that I have regularly come across the trail since the second day has already arrived while the other is going up the snowfield.I am surprised at the pass to note that the Lac du Vétt is still partly in ice.The Presset refuge is only 30 minutes' walk away.Entirely redone by the FFCAM, it is modern and all in wood.He releases a warm and friendly atmosphere that also holds to the guards.

While we take advantage of the last rays of the sun on the refuge terrace, we are quietly observing young ibex.

After dinner, I come out on the other side of the lake to take some photos and a timelapse.This landscape always impresses me as much.I'm not waiting for nightfall, I'm tired.The whole refuge is already lying when I join him.I don't expect my turn.Some snoring is already heard in the ceremonial chamber ...

Creat refuge - Refuge of the

+ 413 m / – 1049 m9,5 km 4h30

Upon waking, the sky is clear.The thunderstorms of the night before that struck the valley next door are already very far away.When I go on the refuge terrace at 6:27 am, the tip of the Pierra Menta is already lit by the sun's rays.I take some photos while my eyelids are barely open.

Direction breakfast.The bread is excellent and homemade jams.Who said that CAF shelters were only used for mediocre dishes?I take my time this morning because the stage is quite short and also because I like this pre -refuge.Some find it too modern, too far away in the minds of the traditional stone refuges of the Alps.On the contrary, I like this wood and how it is arranged.

Rather than following the route of the Beaufortain Tour which passes through the Col du Bresson, I opt for the climb to the foot of the Pierra Menta.I stop quickly on the way to take the time to observe a marmot that plays hide and seek with me.

The Vosges exceed me.I resume my way and join them at the pass.I had passed here three years ago during my turn of the Pierra Menta but in the opposite direction.I did not remember the also alpine character of the passage.It's great.

I go down the lace -up path to the Lake Love (2248 m) where I observe a new marmot discreetly passing my head out of its burrow.A slightly noisy group of hikers arrives and makes me flee the premises.I still have time to swallow the picnic semolina before resuming the path to the corner pass (2398 m).There too I went there but 9 years ago and it was winter in ski touring.

The path continues on a track to the communal shelter of the heem (2059 m).I drink a coca there and take the road back, pass the Cormet d'Arêches which marks the border between Beaufort and Tarentaise then descends to the refuge of the Wait via the Fairy Lake where I join Manue and its dad fromAnnemasse.They started their Beaufortain tour by Arêches and also end it tomorrow at the same time as me.It is 2:30 p.m. when I get there and get to know Michel, the owner of the refuge that he has tested with taste from 1995.

In the evening, we will wait in vain for the chamois who like to descend on the rocky bars behind the refuge.

Refuge de l'Econdu - Refuge des Arolles

+ 833 m / – 838 m11,53 km 5h00

This morning, it was the goalkeeper who came to wake up the room.What a calm in the refuge and around.I could have been sleeping at least an hour.Royal breakfast with croissants, homemade jam, yogurt and fruit juice.

As I wanted to take the road, the marmots all around the refuge start to get out of their burrow.I take this opportunity to make some pictures.

The path joins the Laie farm which produces its Beaufort cheese and which also raises some pigs.The diots eaten the day before are not made from cheese even if we are in Beaufortain!

In the descent to Lake Saint-Guérin, I come across a flock of tarins, one of the two species of cows with the abundance to produce milk for the manufacture of Beaufort.AOC requires, no other cow can produce the famous Beaufort.A cheese tender like Gruyère but with a more typical taste.It’s as we sometimes hear the "Prince of Gruyères".

I join the shore of Lake Saint-Guérin that I cross through the bridge.What a beautiful work!

The path goes up to the Planey chalets then under the cover of the Marlhonais forest.At the Rognoux chalets, picnic break with my Vosges friends.It is that by dint of crossing ourselves (because we do not all have the same look), we end up not leaving ourselves.

We pass the ski slopes and the alpine refuge closed this year following a fire.The teams are at work to put it back on foot for the ski season.The path goes in balcony with a succession of short climbs and descents.It's quite exhausting.He joined Lake Tournant (2002 m) and its translucent colors against Grand Mont (2633 m).I will make several stops in the Grand Mount stream because it is beautiful.

I arrive quite tired at the arolles refuge above the Piapolay chairlift.Small beer shared with my Vosges friends.By hiking, even alone, we always meet beautiful meetings.

Splendid view of Mont-Blanc.Unfortunately, I missed the sunset when I took dinner.

AROLLS - QUIGE refuge

+ 708 m / – 1966 m15,25 km 6h30

The sky is more covered than the previous days upon waking but they do not seem threatening.Today, the stage passes three passes.The Col de Bâthie (1889 m) is located only 30 minutes' walk from the Arolles refuge.We join him by a balcony path.

Above the chalet du souffle, I join a herd of cows made up of tarina and abundance.I will miss these cows, their Beaufort even more.It’s really a cheese that I appreciate.

At the exit of the track, the path rises steep to the Col des Lacs (2251 m).I really have trouble on the first part;My body still seems to be in the refuge dormitory, then little by little, the shape comes back.At the pass, we see the Albertville valley below or rather the clouds that surround it with love.

I continue and join the Vosges at the level of the chalets of the Aulp de Tours.The path goes up slightly to a nameless collar and rocks in the rhododendrons.We stop taking the picnic in an open pasture.

It's the last straight line.Queige is at the bottom at an altitude of approximately 700 m.We will make a first stop to discuss with the breeders of Tarine and goats of the chappes.Second step: reach the gîte de Molliessoulaz where the Vosges started their Beaufortain tour.Another little hour to join the Doron and the center of Queige where I started my Beaufortain Tour 7 days ago.That this tour passed quickly.I still have my eyes and head filled with memories and beautiful images.

On your turn now to get involved on the Beaufortain Tour.

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