"Royalcore" trend: how princes and princesses have pierced on Tiktok
Between princesses dresses and knight's shoes, fashion crosses a spatio-temporal fault.Luxury collections with dedicated hashtags on Instagram and Tiktok, the trend for royal clothes is growing.Should we see a royalist melancholy or a simple desire to thwart the corridors of time?Decryption.
On Tiktok and Instagram, the hashtags relating to "royalcore" combine hundreds of millions of views.From "Knightcore" to "regencycore" to "princess", these keywords designate a clean wardrobe in medieval times to that of the English Regency.This enthusiasm for the fashion of this time is also felt on online sales, since, in its latest report, the Lyst Shopping Platform noted an increase of 23% in 2021 in the search for corset, flagship piece of the trend"Regencycore".
Inspired by queens and princesses, the trend of "Princesscore" takes up the graceful and delicate aesthetic of these and is essentially based on long bulky dresses, crinolines, fluid and rich tissues, corsets, and accessoriessuch as second skin tiaras or gloves.Among the pioneers of the trend, the tiktofer @porsharenaehall, self-proclaimed "modern princess" and followed by more than a million subscribers, alternates between staging princess outfits of different eras and deciphers of royal aesthetics.Content both kitsch and fun.
The influence of pop culture and period series
In fashion, the chivalrous has resurfaced when Balenciaga presented during its fall-winter 2021 collection of the Poulaine Solerets.Particularly adopted by Cardi B, these large steel boots with long ends and pointed atmosphere Godefroy de Montmirail in "The visitors" stamped an uninhibited return to the medieval.In the process, Lil Nas X Y also succumbed and landed at the Met Gala last September, dressed in a golden cape worthy of a king of yesteryear under which was hiding a knight armor, also golden golden.Two outfits signed Versace which perfectly embody the royalcore.
Lil Nas X at the Met Gala 2021 and Cardi B in cover of the magazine "Interview" © John Shearer and Taylor Hill / Getty Images © Instagram @cardib
But more than a simple remake of "Game of Thrones" Bling version, the trend is mainly inspired by the codes of the English Regency with the success of the Netflix series "La Chronique des Bridgerton", broadcast at the end of December 2020.The imminent arrival of the second season undoubtedly announces a surge of flower and frills dresses.Need inspiration?You only have to look from Simone Rocha's side, follower of tiaras, satin ribbons, lace, English embroidery and other voluminous petticoat and tulle dresses.Ditto at Erdem, which offers long Dresses in the Edwardian style in its spring-summer 2022 collection, or at the Selkie brand, specializing in princess dresses, modern version.
Simone Rocha SS22 and Erdem SS22 © IMAXTREE
Between regression and cultural reappropriation
If the influence of films and series plays a role in the comeback of these clothes of yesteryear, it is also a whole part of dream turned towards the past that impacts the locker room.Is nostalgia for clothing a denial of the future?For Julien Maelström, author and history consultant whose Instagram account (@julienmaelstrom) brilliantly tells and deciphers the history of fashion, "watching the past is also traveling in a distant region, where people dress,live and think in a very different way from ours ”.For the author, the codes that have changed a lot over time, the Royalcore is also a way of questioning those of today and adopting a greater imaginary latitude: "Codes of power, beauty,of wealth, or gender varied enormously depending on the time.(...) Turning to history to explore these fluctuations puts into perspective the importance of the codes of our society of 2021, and, I hope, makes them evolve.But according to Julien Maelström, other factors can also explain this backward -looking impulse, such as speeches around cultural decolonization that pushes us all the more to search the Western cultural past.So, ready to play the princesses?
