Relive the Fashion Week Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021-2022
Modes this year, the week of fashion have been turned upside down by the pandemic, the Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021-2022 season celebrates the return of physical parades.Relive these exceptional moments in this article in videos.By Alex Kessler and Marie Courtois
If the fashion industry has experienced significant disruptions during the pandemic, haute couture has maintained the course and continues to offer new sensational moments.The Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2021-2022 Haute Couture calendar, from July 5 to 8, brings together both the big names in the usual fashion but also new talents, thus expanding the spectrum of the oldest and most prestigious of the weeksof fashion.
The history of haute couture
Just after the war, in 1945, the most renowned houses - including Chanel, Christian Dior, Schiaparelli and Givenchy - were invited by the union chambers to present haute couture collections.The members were responsible for creating unique pieces respecting a whole set of specific rules, including creative excellence, meticulousness of details and a minimum number of hours spent making creations to be able to be entered in the official calendar ofthe event.Since its first edition, Haute Couture Week has marked the history of fashion with exquisite pieces and bewitching presentations.Let us quote the Versace Fall-Winter 1995-1996 parade with dazzling glamor or the postapocalyptic presentation of the Chanel Fall-Hiver 2013-2014 collection.
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021-2022 parades in videos
ChanelAt the heart of the Galliera palace, of which Chanel is the exclusive patron, the house offered a moment of poetry and delicacy during the presentation of its fall-winter 2021-2022 seam. Au détour des 37 silhouettes qui composait la collection, Virginie Viard téléportait les modèles au cœur de tableaux impressionnistes du 19èmesiècle.Édouard Manet, Marie Laurencin… There are many artistic references.Tweed's timeless coats have fun with paint stains, the skirts prick themselves with embroidered flowers or feathers and dresses are inspired by bucolic gardens where black knots are in the way heroines of Berthe Morisot's paintings.Finally, it was actress Margaret Qualley who closed this show in a sober but chic wedding dress punctuated by a sequin veil and a pink knot in the hair.From a chromatic point of view, the optimistic and joyful colors are de rigueur: “I wanted a particularly colorful, very embroidered collection (…) because I like colors in the greyness of winter”underlined Virginie Viard.A sweet moment suspended in time while the retrospective dedicated to Gabrielle Chanel will close on July 18.
DiorAlways in a desire to highlight the artisanal know-how, Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior, focused on embroidery techniques for this Haute Couture Fall-Hiver 2021-2022 collection presented at the Rodin Museum in Paris in Paris.Sometimes Sometimes net or even designed from sequins, the embroidery is available from every angle.While drawing from the roots of the Parisian house, the Italian designer has redrawn the iconic Dior pieces like the bar tailor in a resolutely retro spirit with the neutral chromatic palette without ever being austere which mixes with the emblematic printhen and with vaporous dresses with elegant drapes, signatures of the house.The highlight of the show?The wedding dress, green, slightly transparent and covered with embroidery reminiscent of nature.
ValentinoFor its fall-winter 2021-2022 couture collection, "Valentino des Ateliers", presented outside the calendar at the Foundation seen in Venice, Pierpaolo Piccioli pays tribute to contemporary art by collaborating with 17 painters from different horizons.The result is an explosion of pop and joyful colors such as the emblematic red Valentino but also candy pink, sparkling yellow or duck blue on outfits designed from feathers, glitter ... from the majestic ball gownFrom Party-Girl through draped dresses and hats with a futuristic look, this presentation in 85 looks highlights all the know-how of the Italian house which demonstrates that the limit between art and fashion has never beenso blurred.
FendiKim Jones' inspiration for this second Haute Couture Fendi collection?His fascination for Rome and more particularly, the vision of the Italian city via the camera of the director Pier Paolo Pasolini.In a desire to connect the past and the present, by echoing the rich story of Rome, Fendi revealed, through a film directed by Luca Guadagnino (Call Me By Your Name), a series of delicate and poetic creations.With the backdrop of the architecture of ancient Rome, draped dresses inspired by marble columns respond to immaculate minirobas and sets entirely embroidered with sequins.Silhouettes with meticulous details whose references to antiquity are numerous and readjusted in a contemporary context: pumps are adorned with mosaics, golden earrings take the form of amphorae and take shape on the bags of life scenesAncient Rome.A collection developed by a 5 -star casting composed, among others, of Mariacarla Boscono, Amber Valletta or even Lily Grace Moss.
BalenciagaBalenciaga had not presented a couture collection for 52 years.It is now done with an impressive collection in many ways, which was presented at 10, avenue Georges V, an address which included the historic fair where the Couture de Cristóbal Balenciaga presentations took place, restored identically.This return to haute couture, Demna Gvasalia, artistic director of the luxury house, wanted to anchor it in reality, in response to the societal issues of today.Jubbing the codes of haute couture, the parade, mixed, presented unrealed silhouettes -most of the faces of the models were, moreover, covered -, including the traditional wedding dress hidden under a thick veil.Eclasticants of simplicity, the looks of this collection, essentially monochrome, are characterized by their architectural build, signature of the aesthetics of Cristóbal Balenciaga, their oversized cut and evening dresses Inspiration for 1950s.The high point ?A trompe l'oeil dress, embroidered on the delicate flower bust, revealing pants in the back.Parts, overall, devoid of superfluous details, however impeccably cut and worked.Successful bet for Demna Gvasalia who managed to mix the know-how and history of the fashion house in a resolutely contemporary era.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Since he withdrew from fashion, Jean Paul Gaultier has brought a new dimension to his eponymous brand by inviting creators to achieve a couture collection in their image.For this first series, it was Chitose Abe, founder of the Japanese brand in vogue Sacai, who was in the spotlight.For Jean Paul Gaultier, the designer had fun mixing the universe of her own label with the codes of the French fashion house.The games of materials, the ample silhouettes, the hyper-structured and experimental forms of one meet the iconic pieces of the other, with in sight, the underwear and corsets, the work blues-the uniformof the one we call the terrible child of fashion - and the sea cloakroom.An irreverent collection with a punk spirit which gives a place of choice to prints, as tattooed on the skin but also to denim, relaxed material reinvented in a pure luxury spirit.
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SchiaparelliFrom color, joy and pieces to structured volume games: the Haute Couture Schiaparelli spring-summer 2022 collection by Daniel Roseberry pays tribute to "romanticism, excess and dreams" but also to the very special DNAThe fashion house.Mixture of a “little manet, a little Lacroix, a little of the 1980s, a little of the 1880s, a little matador, a little extraterrestrial, a little ingres, a little brilliant, a lot ofColors ”, according to the words of the artistic director, this collection aims to be faithful to the iconic pieces signed by Elsa Schiaparelli.Daniel Roseberry gives as much part to the Matador jackets, revisited by baroque details, as to the Rose Shocking and the trompe-l'oeil that made the French brand renown.Special mention to golden jewelry, sometimes daring, sometimes oversized, which complement this collection.
Armani PrivéBackdrop of this sewing presentation, the brilliant silk organza has shaped most of the private Armani looks, echoing in the name of the collection, so well named "Shine".In pants, dress or blouse, this fabric worked in a particular way to obtain this shimmering rendering is available on a multitude of pieces with a single watchword: the fluidity: the fluidity.This almost aerial lightness is highlighted by a palette of pastel colors, from tender pink to almond green via powdery beige which gives a magical appearance to the outfits.Sublimated by volume games, stubborn glitter and signature transparency, this collection created by Giorgio Armani offered to the guests on the side of a component a enchanted parenthesis within the salons of the Italian Embassy in Paris.
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Maison MargielaFor his presentation presentation, John Galliano imagined for Maison Margiela a dream feature film directed by Olivier Dahan entitled “A Folk Horror Tale” which explains the design of the masterpieces of this collection.A collection that rises sewing to an experimental style exercise, between ingenious denim patchworks, embroidered illustrations such as azelos, assumed seams and dresses deconstructed.Also experimental in the manufacturing process with parts that seem to be holes, torn, all twisted by noble materials and meticulous details.Silhouettes staged on models playing the conquistadors of another era in a troubled and bewitching atmosphere, between dream and nightmare.
Viktor & RolfIt is with great derision that the duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren designed this new Couture collection.An inspired and inspiring collection that pays tribute, in their own way, to members of royal families through an exercise in regressive soft-amer style.Completely disproportionate looks - both in the radical proportions decorated with Swarovski crystals as well as multicolored pearls - are accompanied by large scarves on which slogans can be read such as "Always Wear Your Invisible Crown", "Princess?No bitch, queen! ”But also "Don’t Be a Drag, Just Be a Queen", a nod to the lyrics of the song Born This Way by Lady Gaga, close friend of the two Dutch creators.A desire also to express through these theatrical parts an ambiguity, between the desire "to give yourself in a spectacle" and to "save appearances" according to the note accompanying the presentation of the parade.The ultimate detail?The place of presentation: the expiatory chapel in Paris, where Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were buried after being guillotined ...
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Giambattista ValliIt was between the walls of the Chinese Communist Party Headquarters that Giambattista Valli revealed his new Couture collection.In the wake of his inimitable style, the Italian creator revealed a panoply of theatrical dresses in a flow of fresh colors like candy pink, pistachio green or turquoise blue, highlighted by the sober and raw architecture of the place.His inspiration?A night walk in Paris, post-pandemic, with a slight taste for danger and curiosity.In itself, “the taste of the ladle” in the words of Giambattista Valli in an interview with Vogue.UK.A disturbing universe that is transmitted through different dark vaporous silhouettes with dramatic and bulky trains.
Iris van HerpenTrue to its very architectural style, Iris Van Herpen presented a digital parade made up of evanescent and structured 3D silhouettes and fluid dresses with side cuts.Called "Earthrise", the collection highlights our planet and the immensity of space, a science that has fascinated the Dutch designer since her 15 years.A collection in 19 looks which evokes as much the lightness and grace of movements as the power of these contemporary armor, halfway between experimentation and poetry in a subtle game of degraded colors.
Charles de VilmorinIf Charles de Vilmorin has accustomed us to a colorful and joyful fashion, his fall-winter 2021-2022 couture collection highlights a dark and threatening universe.The looks, mainly available in an ultra-dark chromatic palette, stage an army of warriors, with a panoply of pirate cache and excessive nails, with worn silhouettes bewitching.In accordance with the game of forms which signs the young French designer, the dresses are adorned with unstructured sleeves, in an almost dramatic theatrical aesthetic.
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Alexandre VauthierWestern, cabaret or seventies atmosphere, the Couture collection by Alexandre Vauthier pays homage to each of these very distinct universes.In an essentially black chromatic palette, however punctuated by a few scintillating looks, the French creator targets excess: dresses are adorned with feathers, fringes or are worn with crowns and caps reminiscent of the most extravagant headgear of carnivalFrom Rio, the silhouettes are accelerating with wide boots and embroidered cowboy boots.Even more, it is a work on the materials that the designer experienced brilliantly: by handling embroidered leather, transparent muslin, crystals, feathers or false fur, Alexandre Vauthier revealed a fantasized wardrobe to wearduring evenings placed under the sign of audacity.
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AzzaroFor this haute couture collection, Olivier Theyskens, artistic director of Azzaro since 2020, imagines a mixed locker room to wear all night full of audacity and sophistication.Disco silhouettes entirely embroidered with light sequins respond to smockings with assertive proportions and sculptural dresses, which one might think created on the body of the models, with sensual cuts, revealing both a deep neckline, as shoulder or anaked leg.A smart mixture of sobriety and fantasy counterbalanced by a black and white chromatic palette punctuated with brilliant silver touches.
Ronald van der KempIf recycling is an integral part of Ronald van der Kemp DNA, this new Couture collection is no exception to the rule.It has been fully thought out and prepared from upcycled materials: fabric falls from previous seasons, vintage fabrics, factories… An approach that is part of a desire to produce a high couture fashion that does not ignoreon the environmental issues that we are going through today.In his note that accompanies the presentation of the collection, the Dutch designer announces that he wants to “change bad habits” undertaken in fashion: “Abandon addiction to always more (…) Prepare to listen to when nature wecall.”The result is silhouettes that sublimate plant patterns, whether it is fully embroidered flower groves, 3D leaves or baroque jacquards prints.In a female fatal spirit, the collection is completed with magnetic aura dresses, punctuated by worked, bulky trains and shoulders.
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Julie de LibranHer new Couture collection, Julie de Libran dedicates her to "little hands", these craftsmen who work in the shadow of artistic directors.This is in this way that she has - accompanied by accomplices of the house - revisited her most essential rooms in a pure luxury version.Its dresses, with a timeless look, is sublimate with lace, fringes, English embroidery or adorned with embroidered rhinestones, in a resolutely optimistic spirit.And because the transmission of artisanal know-how is dear to her, the designer called on students from the Istituto Marangoni, of which she is the official godmother of the Parisian antenna, in the realization of this sparkling collection.
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Didit HediprasetyoIt is on the roofs of Paris that the Couture Didit Hediprasetyo presentation was shot.A collection in a shades of black and white that mixes the female and male changing rooms: well -cut men's tailors respond to dresses with timeless elegance, with asymmetrical cuts.On the men's side, the coats are adorned with fanciful details like a feathered sleeve or texture games.
August Getty AtelierDuring the presentation of its Couture Spring-Summer 2021 Couture collection in March 2021, the August Getty house had shaken up the codes by presenting fully developed creations.This new fashion week is an opportunity for her to finally reveal these avant-garde silhouettes in a physical way.Looks in sparkling colors that display daring shapes and play in excess.Sometimes designed from hand painted silk, sometimes molded leather marrying body shapes - sometimes disproportionate - the pieces of this collection push the limits of traditional haute couture.According to the creator, this collection, entitled "Tinitus", "is a world of escape", that is to say an escape in a dreamlike universe.
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More fashion and all the Haute Couture news on Vogue.FR: Haute Couture in 14 unforgettable moments Fendic, Chanel… Haute Couture Spring-summer 2021 collections in videoshaute Couture: 28 unforgettable moments in backstage of parades in the 90s
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