Resto Knuckles criticism: for a responsible restoration

Restaurant review takes a new turn to the press.As always, our criticism tells you their experience by emphasizing the good and, sometimes, the worst shots.But we now explain the choice of a restaurant or another.We also present the team in the dining room and in the kitchen.This week: Knuckles Cantine and Wines.

Why talk about it?

Established in rue Jarry has been since September 2020, Knuckles Cantine and Wines is another of these (courageous) establishments who have decided to open in the middle of the pandemic, first in the form of a counter, by betting on his "Knuckles" - des desClothes in the shape of a closed fist, which inspired the name of the place - and some seasonal dishes, which had made a good impression during our first visit, last fall.Since then, the restaurant that offers Canadian cooking Italian influence has decided, without drum or trumpet, to go to an exclusively vegetarian menu.A second visit last summer, on the pretty terrace, had charmed us.We wanted to see how their proposal had evolved, a year later.

Who are they ?

Basically, the Knuckles project is the idea of Matthew Shefler, which chef Vincent Lévesque Lepage quickly grafted. Le premier a surtout travaillé comme mixologue — avant la pandémie, il s’occupait de la carte des cocktails du Mousso et du Petit Mousso —, le deuxième, lui, est passé par des établissements comme le Hoogan & Beaufort.In the dining room and in the kitchen (open), they are supported by a small tight, nice and welcoming team.It was after a few months of activity that the chef wanted to push his locavore approach further and as zero waste as possible by offering a vegetable menu: "My philosophy is to bring an ethical side to the kitchen.As a chef, in 2021, we must give an example.»»

Our experience

Cramped, festive and warm: this is how we could sum up the Knuckles.With its narrow room, which allows you to accommodate around thirty guests, you quickly feel warm in this establishment in the Villeray district.The place is not displayed as a vegetarian restaurant, and it is like this;We could sit down there without even noticing it.When it happens, the chief says he has accomplished his mission.

These days, the Knuckles client is entitled to an autumnal, comforting and robotic menu, divided between small vegetable dishes and fresh pasta plates.You have to taste at least once the Knuckles, inspired by the Panzerotti recipe from the Italian grandmother of Matthew. « Pizzas-pochettes de luxe»», elles ont une pâte frite gonflée d’air, juste assez craquante sous la dent, et leur garniture de pulpe de tomates, origan et trois fromages (parmesan, pecorino et mozzarella) rend véritablement hommage aux racines de la cuisine italienne : des produits de qualité qu’on laisse briller sans les dénaturer.

No doubt, the chef is an outstanding technician, who works a lot of preparations and uses many techniques (absolutely everything, except the bread, is homemade), while putting forward punchy, very assertive flavors.

There are really amazing and amazing dishes à la carte du Knuckles, like that you will not taste anywhere else.

The best example is undoubtedly this entry of roasted roots of parsley - whose delicate taste is similar to parsnips - which are enthroned on a Jerusalem artichoke puree and a hazelnut butter mounted with black garlic, both of an incredible smoothness.On the top, matsutake crude mushrooms, in thin strips, allow you to appreciate this seasonal product in its purest expression, while Panko fried in butter adds texture.To lick your fingers.

The Beet's plate, with its leeway and homemade feta (with Missiska organic milk) served on a lactofermented plum puree (a very beautiful idea, which brings depth and round) and surmounted by marinated fennel flowers,A fall and successful version of the traditional Panzanella.

That said, some dishes lack balance, such as broccoli monochrome.The cruciferous is roasted directly on the coal, and served cooled (an idea that did not convince us), coated with a green puree made from the quarters of the broccoli, then accompanied by a condiment of herbs, chips of chipsRice and sea lettuce and fresh caramelized yeast powder.An intense dish that lacks delicacy, where the umami taste prevails over the rest.

The whole wheat strozzapreti are certainly tasty, but not the more harmonious dish of the evening: there are a thorn out of pronounced smoke, the bitterness of rapini and sage and, our favorite element, a creamyAnd slightly raised infused sauce of a condiment of Portuguese peppers burned at grill, then lactofermented, which illustrate well how the chef uses seasonal foods all year round by transforming them.

We preferred the simplicity of the spaghetti chittara: from dodnes pasta to egg yolks (from the noëka farm) absolutely perfect, a very tasty sauce, made from very ripe Heirloom tomatoes and basil, mozzarella de buffalonne du Québecand candied cherry tomatoes.A classic with local sauce, which hits the bull's eye.

Despite the lack of appetite, the duty calls us: we must taste the dessert, a trio of whipped cream, cute like everything, filled here with an apple compote, there from a pastry cream in the camera orto the sea buckthorn.Delicious !

In our glass

Matthew selects the wine at the Knuckles.Without being a sommelier, he shows a good flair and lets himself be guided by his instinct ... and what himself wants to drink.One thing is certain: we have the same tastes. Des vins (et quelques bières) faciles à boire et provenant des principales agences québécoises d’importation privée (Boire, Vitriol, Ward & Associés, Bacchus, Primavin…) axés sur la culture en biodynamie, avec plusieurs petites perles à découvrir, souvent en quantités limitées.You can enjoy a beautiful selection by glass.Even if he felt the need to move away from mixology, the co -owner still has two or three options of the moment in his bag for those who would like to order a cocktail.Dare to venture there: you will not be disappointed.

How many ?

Two Knuckles will cost you $ 12.Vegetable dishes vary from $ 15 to $ 20;The pasta is around $ 25 and the dessert details at $ 15.As for the wines, there is something for all portfolios, with some small rarities which can exceed a hundred dollars for those who taste it and the means.

Good to know

Vegetarians will obviously be in angels here;For vegans, it will be more difficult, most plates incorporating butter, eggs or dairy products.

Due to the smallness of the room and its staircases at the entrance, the Knuckles is difficult to access to people with reduced mobility.

Information

Knuckles Cantine and Wines is open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 5 p.m..Reservations are highly recommended.

241, rue Jarry Est, Montreal