Post -Cavid, fashion is lived under subculture ACID - Les Inrocks
The creators will draw from the raves of the 1990s colors and silhouettes for a reflection on the body and freedom imagining the trends of tomorrow, those of the after world.
A feverish and uncertain course begins in a blue forest.The gaze attaches to colorful fabrics, then gets lost in a thick orange mist, recovering from the movements of vibrating silhouettes to the rhythm of happy music: despite the screen barrier, the Koché digital parade immerses us inA libertarian rave.
Entitled Bird of Paradise, presenting the fall-winter 2021 collection, the film summons the senses and updates the heterogeneous dress codes of acid houses in the 1990s: zero velvet combinations surmounted by black capes, hoodies decorated with embroidery and rooster feathers, faded jeans and fluorescent dresses dress bodies with diluted contours in the euphoria of dance.
Alliages esthético-pratiques et effronterie kitsch
An immersion in a bygone time, where the Acid Kids changed outfits to the rhythm of the raves, combining comfort and spectacular to dance for days."Unlike those who engage in a single community, the subculture of ACID clubs in the 1990s celebrates the multiplicity of identities.Rather than living in the fear of the present, the clubbers extract themselves from the closet and exalt various artifices, "wrote anthropologist Ted Polhemus in his work Surfing style: What to Wear in the 3rd Millennium (1996).
These post-culture looks with acidic colors and psychedelic prints are found in tops with tightening cords, worn with large pants, in Irish Rory Parnell Mooney.
The yellow and purple taints of the knitting and fine functional tight dresses of Ottolinger are reminiscent of the aesthetico-practical alloys of these terrible children, while the multicolored meshes of the unisex wardrobe of Wataru tominaga dare the kitsch cheese.
What color will the feast of tomorrow be?While the world is stopped, it is in the colorful reminiscences of jerked choreographies that the fashion industry forges a reflection around the body and freedom now restricted.
Culture marginalisée
The particularity of the ACID subculture?An initiation to the loose body of market scenes, passing by dances freed from social norms.Introduced into Great Britain in the summer of 1987, Acid House found its roots in the black gay clubs in Chicago.
Marginalized culture, it quickly arouses distrust;Its introduction to British soil will be accompanied by a feeling of panic.The bodies of his followers carrying t-shirts with smileys become the silhouettes to be killed, repressed by Margaret Thatcher.
"The corporality shared through the experience of clothing attached to the Euphoria of the party has always marked the creators," noted Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson in Body Dressing (2001).
Thus the ACID rituals find various translations in the fashion “Techno, Primal, Positive, Tribal”-dixit the Cassette Playa brand-, in the SM-pop by Walter Van Beirendonck or in the subcultural obsessions of Raf Simons.
In 1997, the latter pixed a youth in search of holidays in a video for his Teenage Summercamp collection.In 2020, these young people transferred Balenciaga to video game characters announcing a new fashion world.
Une mode stroboscopique
Fashion recalls that it is the place of metamorphoses, like acid trips.As an example, in the Brexit chaos, the young British creator Matty Bovan stages a collection in psychedelic colors, where the boundaries between the bodies and the scintillating clothing pieces are fading, forming fantastic creatures.
"In raves, the abstraction of a stroboscopic effect, where the colors and prints of the clothes mix, give way to an intense visual experience, where the eye cannot be fixed.The bodies escape identification.Survisionibility invisits them, ”explains the philosopher Marie Schiele.
If the clothing of Acid Kids allows them to play between visibility and invisibility, their multiple rebirths allow fashion to articulate exuberance and practical.
Like marginalized tribes, the future of fashion will be-as the American philosopher gave Haraway hopes for the world of tomorrow-carried by “new bodies, new human and non-human narrators, ofNew possibilities especially, which make a conscious future […] made of alliances, care and secrets ”?
