Memorable desserts |The press

Aahhh, dessert!Regardless of the dishes that preceded him at the table, it is often him that we remember the most.And who makes us dream ... We asked four pastry chefs to tell us how a dessert steals the show.

To see the desserts that Rémy Couture concocts at the Pastry Crémy on the Mont-Royal plateau, one wonders if it is not sugar flowing in its veins.Its syrup pies surmounted by whipped cream, its stored cakes with sliding avalanche and other reinvented classics, not counting its buckets overflowing with garnishes, have ever more numerous customers have been salivating for 10 years."Since the start of the pandemic, people are garrie on my desserts," says the "King of the Donut".

The more it goes, the more my desserts have to strike the imagination.When it flows, it looks completely pig, almost impossible to eat, the world hangs.

Rémy Couture, owner of Crémy

Personally, Rémy Couture likes when a touch of acidity or bitterness counterbalances the richness of sugar and buttercream, but he has no qualms about filling the clear preference of crowds for caramel and chocolate.He even started selling frozen desserts, including his hazelnut Knock-Out Brownie in Metro grocery stores.And he just launched a first recipe book entitled Do you want dessert?In all!at the La Presse editions, in which he presents around fifty desserts ... more decadent than the other.

Among them, Paris-Beigne, tribute to the classic Paris-Brest, composed of a huge donut lined with hazelnut mousseline cream, covered with a chocolate frosting, with a line of caramel, crunchy balls and grilled hazelnuts.This is one that has not stolen its place in the incredible dessert department!

The pastry chef, who worked a lot in catering, perfect his training at Pierre Hermé in Paris and won culinary competitions Donut Showdown and Sugar Showdown on the Food Network, also offers his versions of desserts from his childhood.The Ou-Timette or the Sainte-Catherine shoot, but also the little caramel cakes, which look like those who are sold in grocery store."This is one of my favorites," he said.I did not invent it, but I do it in my own way, with a good vanilla cake, soaked in a lot of crunchy milk chocolate, a slightly bitter buttercotch and a butter cream that holds it all ... "

Rémy Couture pays tribute to his two grandmothers with recipes like the Granolas bars (which are not grano) of one and the blondies of the other.His syrup pie was inspired by his father, who often bought sugar pie."We ate her in an evening with two points," recalls Rémy.I do mine with syrup only, then a whipped cream, a little caramel and maple leaf cookies or caramelized pacans.It's Next Level!"Do you want to taste it?You will find the recipe with the next tab.

To make an dessert unforgettable, nostalgia seems to weigh as heavy as decadence in the balance of Rémy Couture.This does not prevent him from wanting to reinvent himself every day from that where, in the summer of 2013, he started making donuts in a small fryer to sell them in a truck during the MTL Bouffes event."Each month, we try something new," he said.We are pastry chefs - my donut manager at the moment, it's Vincent Rouyé, finalist at the laurels of gastronomy this year - and we don't want to be bored!»»

Souvenir tastes

The pastry chef Gabrielle Rivard-Hiller, owner of the hut on the rock in Oka, also attaches essential importance to the ability of dessert to awaken emotions and memories."A good dessert also touches the heart," she says.It brings us back to our childhood.To be abandoned, it must be simple and prepared with ingredients you know, not too exotic or too worked.»»

Second key to success for the chef who has already worked at the sugar hut at the foot of a pig: the freshness.Ingredients, of course, but also preparation.

A millefeuille with a crispy paste to which we have just added the cream, then lukewarm maple butter, it's really better, she explains.And fruit just out of the field, still a little hot, on a cake ... That's the real luxury.

Gabrielle Rivard-Hiller, owner of the hut on the rock

Of course, if dessert is called upon to emphasize an important moment, it deserves a certain scale."For a wedding, for example, it takes something exceptional, like a mounted piece. Plus c’est gros, plus c’est haut, mieux c’est !»»

Another factor to consider: those with whom we share a dessert."If you are with people that you love more or less," notes Gabrielle Rivard-Hiller, the dessert may be great, you are not going to keep a great memory of it.But when you are with the right people, everything becomes perfect.»»

Go further

The atmosphere in which a dessert is tasted is worth much in its appreciation, also believes Charles Provost, head of desserts (take-out, these days) at the Mastard restaurant of chef Simon Mathys, rue Bélanger, in Montreal. « La musique, par exemple, ça change tout, ça apporte vraiment quelque chose»», dit celui qui, pour sa part, aime bien être surpris.

I remember a dessert at Smyth, in Chicago: a candied egg yolk with a liquorice syrup and a glossy yogurt meringue ... it had shaké.I realized that we could go further than I thought with the desserts.

Charles Provost, head of desserts at the Mastard restaurant

The experience inspired him, and he likes to be guided by the flavors of the moment to explore textures and offer amazing associations."For a meal on the four-time farm of the Manitoba restaurant [where he then worked with Simon Mathys], I prepared a dessert that combined Fenouil, strawberries and monard, playing with basic techniques, while lightness.People still tell me about it!The main thing is there: a dessert that works, it makes you happy.»»

Eye with your eyes

Astonishing or comforting, a marking dessert must of course be delicious, but it is also a dish that is required to impress well before being tasted, insists Masami Waki, pastry chef of Montreal restaurants Club Chasse etche, thenet and snake.After a hearty meal, if it is not distinguished immediately, with its perfume or its colors, the dessert may indeed be .... « On ne peut pas faire grand-chose pour changer la couleur d’une viande ou d’un poisson, dit-elle, mais en pâtisserie, on peut presque tout faire, du rose, du vert !»»

Now, finding the right visual balance remains a challenge, adds Masami Waki, who does not believe it is particularly good at the thing."I have to push myself, it forces me to be creative and that is probably why I still have so much pleasure in making desserts.»»

Eager for challenges, the chef is very looking forward to finding the pace of production before the pandemic, which forced him to reinvent herself constantly by betting on a variety of different tastes.

A only sweet dessert, it's annoying.I like to play on acidity, bitterness and salt too, that's what makes an interesting dessert, which makes you remember it.

Masami Waki, pastry chef of Montreal restaurants Club Chasse etche, the net and the snake

The cake of which it offers the recipe in this file, with its bitter caramel and tangy raspberry jam, brings together some of the chief's favorite flavors.There is also white chocolate.Because chocolate remains a must -have."We often break our heads to offer really captivating things ... concludes Masami Waki.But in the end, what people want is chocolate. Et c’est vrai que c’est délicieux !»»

Pie Recipe At Maple Syrup

The time of sugars is in full swing, so it's the perfect time to prepare the famous Rémy Couture syrup pie, a recipe from your book Do you want dessert?In all!.

Yield: from 6 to 8 portions (1 pie)

Preparation: 1 hour (+2 h 30 of rest)

Cooking: 1 hour

Ingredients

Sugary crust

1/2 Cup (125 ml) of non -salty ointment butter (leave the butter at room temperature, then work it with a spatula or for a fork until flexible consistency)

1/2 Cup (125 ml) of glazing sugar

1/4 cup (60 ml) of almond powder

1 large egg

2 Cups (500 ml) of all use flour

1 pinch of fleur de sel

Syrup garnish

1/3 cup (80 ml) of cream 35 %

1 1/2 Cup (375 ml) of dark maple syrup

2 1/2 C.cornstarch

1 C.cold water

1 egg

Maple whipped cream

2 Cups (500 ml) of whipping cream 35 %

2 C.maple sugar

Finishing

Pieces of maple leaf cookies

Caramel Butterscotch

Caramelized pacans in syrup

Preparation

Sugary crust

1.In a large cul-de-poule, mix the ointment butter, glazing sugar and almond powder with a spatula.Add the egg and mix well.

2.Incorporate the flour and the fleur de sel, and mix well.Form a disc of 3/4 to 1 1/4 in (2 to 3 cm) thick with the dough and well wrap it in plastic film.Let stand in the refrigerator at least 2 hours.

3.Take the dough out of the refrigerator and allow it to be tempered for 30 minutes.

4.Preheat the oven to 350 ° F (180 ° C).

5.Flour the dough and the work surface, then lower the dough with a rolling pin to form a circle of about 12 in (30 cm) in diameter and 1/16 in (2 mm) thick thick.

6.Flour the dough again and roll it up on the roller. La dérouler ensuite sur un moule à tarte de 8 po (12 Cm).Lower it well at the bottom of the mold, pressing with your fingers, then cut the excess dough on the edge.

7.With a fork, prick the bottom in several places. Recouvrir la pâte de papier d’aluminium et y déposer environ 3/4 po (2 Cm) d’épaisseur de haricots secs, de riz non cuit ou de lentilles sèches pour empêcher la croûte de faire des bulles et de rétrécir.

8.Cook for 10 to 12 minutes until a slight coloring on the edge.Meanwhile, prepare the syrup filling.

Syrup garnish

9.Preheat the oven to 350 ° F (180 ° C).

10.In a saucepan, bring the cream and maple syrup over medium heat to a boil.

11.Dix the starch in cold water.

12.Incorporate the starch and water into the boiling mixture, whisking constantly, until new boiling.

13.Remove from heat and incorporate the beaten egg, whisking vigorously.

14.Pour the device into the pre -tart bottom.

15.Bake 20 to 30 minutes.

16.Let the pie completely cool before putting the whipped cream.

Maple whipped cream

17.In a large cul-de-poule, whisk the cream with maple sugar until firm peaks are obtained.

18.Refrigerate until the pie finish.

Finishing

19.Cap the pie with maple cream with maple.

20.Decorate, to taste, with a little butterscotch caramel, pieces of maple leaf cookies or, as in the photo, caramelized pacans in the syrup.To serve.

Do you want dessert?In V’aclà! Rémy Coutureéditions La Presse160 pages29.95 $

Recipe: caramel, raspberry cake and vanilla cream

Self -taught pastry chef, Masami Waki is recognized as one of the best pastries in Montreal.She prepares desserts these days to take away as part of the Trifecta project, launched by the owners of the Restaurants Club Chasse etche, the net, the serpent and Il Miglio.Here is the recipe for a cake as pretty as tasty.Note: the quantities are given in grams, because it is the best way to have a satisfactory result.

Yield: from 8 to 10 portions

Preparation: 2 hours (+ 1 rest night)

Cooking: 20 minutes

Ingredients

Cake

200 g of sugar

50 g of water

95 g of cream 35 %

150 g of butter

3 large eggs

150 g of all-purpose flour

5 g chemical baking powder (baking powder)

Raspberry jam

150 g raspberries (fresh or frozen)

Vanilla cream

400 g of cream 35 %

100 g white chocolate in pieces

1 vanilla pod (or 10 g vanilla extract)

Preparation

Cake

1.Bring the cream and butter to a boil in a saucepan.To book.

2.Caramel.In a large saucepan, combine sugar and water.Make sure all the sugar is well wet.Cook over medium heat until the preparation takes a nice caramel color.Do not mix during cooking, to avoid crystallization of sugar.To put out the fire.

3.Pour gently (to avoid burning splashes) the mixture of cream and butter in the caramel by whisking.To book.

4.When the mixture is at room temperature, beat two eggs in the caramel with the whisk.Then add the flour and yeast with a sieve, then incorporate with a wooden spoon until the device is well homogeneous.

5.To book l’appareil à couvert pendant une nuit au réfrigérateur.

6.The next day, preheat the oven to 180 ° C (350 ° F).

7. Verser l’appareil sur une plaque à biscuit de 42 Cm sur 30 cm.Cook for 20 minutes, then let cool.

Raspberry jam

8.Reduce raspberries to two thirds in a saucepan over low heat.Mix from time to time to prevent the fruits from sticking at the bottom of the pan.

9.Let cool.

Vanilla cream

10.Slice the vanilla pod in half to extract the grains using the blade of a knife.Add to the cream in a saucepan (or pour the vanilla extract).Boost.

11.Gently pour the hot cream into a bowl that contains the white chocolate pieces.Mix well until all the chocolate is melted.

12.Cover and let stand one night in the refrigerator.

13.The next day, make a whipped cream with the preparation.

Finishing

14.Extend raspberry jam on the cake (you have to keep a small amount for frosting).

15.Cut the cake into three equal parts, along the length.

16.Spread whipped cream on each piece (you have to keep part of the frosting) and assemble in a stored cake.Masami Waki assembled the layers by forming a circle, but we can be content to put them on each other.

17.Add a little jam with the remaining whipped cream, mixing summarily to obtain a rose -marbled cream and cover the cake (the result will not be exactly the same as that obtained by Masami Waki, which used products that are difficult to find instore).Add, to the choice, garnishes like pieces or spheres of white chocolate and silver crunchy balls.

18.Enjoy.The cake is even better after a night in the refrigerator.

> Consultez le site web du projet Trifecta