Lucie Jeannot: “Green fashion can be very punk”
Lucie Jeannot, fashion project manager at the Première Vision show, tells us about her representation of the future of fashion and how it sheds light on societal changes.
After working for the Atelier Chardon Savard and then for the Christian Lacroix fashion house, Lucie Jeannot now works as a fashion project manager at Première Vision. This trade show works one year before the fashion weeks to define the colors and textile trends from which fashion will build future collections.
Its branch examines today's life with a sociologist's eye to understand the choices and desires that will define the styles of tomorrow.
What trends did you bet on for summer 2022 that turned out to be true?
Just after confinement, we sensed a desire for sensuality, not to say very, very ass. This is what we discovered at Miu Miu in particular, with openings on the body and a narrowing of the cuts. We analyzed it as a desire to keep the acquired comfort, but also to show your body, to go out, to show yourself, to look good and to be sensual. We saw a proximity between sensuality and ecology: these close-fitting cuts introduce new fibers and materials, and desacralize green fashion. We want to be irreverent through ecology and also vis-à-vis it. Ecology no longer means punishment: we flee a moralizing discourse to move towards a textile innovation that allows new possibilities in self-expression. Ecology, like sex, can be very punk.
>> To read also: Hyères Festival: who is Ifeanyi Okwuadi, the big winner of 2021? – Les Inrocks
What do you think of current Y2K fashion, the return of the 2000s?
It's not really new. It's been several years that we observe the label PC Music or the musician Hannah Diamond playing with this aesthetic. It's reassuring, it's fun, it's familiar, like Blumarine's somewhat caricatural revival today. But beware, this is a selective quotation: we choose what we want to revive from a given era. For example, the Y2K does not refer to the collapse of towers; we choose rather the beginnings of Kim Kardashian and Paris Hilton. Finally, a revival can be a form of tarot game in which you project what you want to read and see, and what says the most about yourself.
Première Vision is a partner of the fashion jury's grand prize at the Hyères Festival – what did you notice about the sensitivity and approach of the finalists?
The finalists all showed things that we had observed, such as questions about the performance of fabrics, the increased function of the material. And there was a game of opposites: the smaller it is, the thicker it is, which we also see on the catwalks, like a thick knit skirt like a sweater. Also, there is a renewed interest in sewing. When I was a student, it was associated with dusty collections for weddings. Today, it is becoming a sector that makes it possible to develop a concept and to stand out. Balenciaga is the perfect example with the recent launch of its couture collection, reflecting a desire for made-to-measure, unique pieces… without ever losing sight of the fact that looks must be more Instagrammable!
