Bouitte: the work of a life - international opinion
The Chiefs
For almost 50 years, the best family has had the bouitte shine.An address perched at the top of the mountains which falls in a gastronomic cascade on the valley.The restaurant is among the most discreet three -star in France.However, René's cuisine began to flourish in 1976, in the heart of the three valleys ski area, in a Savoyard chalet built with its hands.It serves a few years from the fondues with Marie-Louise in the dining room which welcomes hungry skiers.But a meal at Paul Bocuse transforms their vision of cooking.Peeled recipe books, changed decoration and revised service, the best modify the direction of their boat, until reaching three stars in 2015 in 2015.A feat for this self -taught!Meanwhile, Maxime, the son, joined his parents.Talented, hardworking, he offers new impetus to this beautiful house, just like her sister, Sophie, who also joined the affair to devote herself to the hotel part, because here, everyone puts his heart at work andAt work to sublimate Savoy.
"Father and son merged their gifts to achieve a synchronization of unique gestures of its kind, of an precision of goldsmith in the manner of art craftsmen, and ultimately embody the best of Savoy"We have communication.Behind the words, a reality full of kindness, listening, creativity and a true family spirit predominate.
Because René Meilleur is not content to play the second knives, but keeps both hands in the cabus and the open eye: for this playful man, the bouitte remains the work of his life, which he refines for generationsfollow one another in this enchanted place.
Little by little, the refuge has therefore turned into a very popular stopover of tranquility and delicacies, which has, moreover, invested in a magnificent spa, with a small private lake, to build a soothing well-being setting at theMiddle of the white gold in the mountains.A moment of relaxation before sitting in front of a dinner with a thousand flavors, sublimated by producers who bring all their know-how to this breathtaking table.We will find there the Féras and the poles of Lake Geneva, old varieties of carrots or sublime chanterelles, tarentaise beef and hunting products, confidential cheeses or fresh herbs and wild plants picked on the sides of the sideshills like bears garlic, gentian or blueberries.
Only then the miracle can occur: René and Maxime can boil their wildest ideas, heat the pots and crackle the butter in the pan so that each dish becomes poetry, each recipe takes us into a snowy story, each gesture brings togetherA little more happiness.
The chef's word
Here is a regressive dessert, an irresistible journey back to childhood.A Madeleine de Proust version La Bouitte.Difficult to imagine that such a common food can be so transcended, to become one of the peaks of gastronomy and refinement.
In the various hamlets around Saint Martin de Belleville, several farmers perpetuate an ancestral know-how, an opportunity to rediscover the singular taste of the milks of cow, sheep and goat altitude at altitude.
From the design of butter, to the emblematic dish of the Crozets to the Spa treatments (Bath of Marie au Milit and Honey from Saint Marcel), milk is part of the identity of the bouitte.But it is in this signature dessert, that he takes all his dimension.We plunge into a symphony of aerial milk, between whole and semi-skimmed cow's milk, sheep and goat yogurts, milk powder within the meringue, farmer butter, and-height of gluttony-themilk jam (also micro-filtered whole cow, for more flavors).
The genesis of this culinary creation goes back to Christmas Eve on December 31, 2010.We wanted to finish on immaculate white tones, recalling the snow enveloping the chalet.With the purpose of creating an emblematic dessert of Savoy terroirs, and concluding this large meal with a fresh and subtle note.
This dish is a game of 7 types of textures between the crunch of the cookie and the meringue, and the smoothness and the tenderness of the foam and the sorbet.We discover it in small touches, with a succession of fleeting sensations.
This test was a master stroke.Every day following this famous New Years Eve, the hosts have continued to claim this new dessert, having heard of their loved ones."Milk in all its states" has since become a great classic of Bouitte, which is refined, reinvents itself over the seasons, while keeping the same DNA. Il est probable qu’il ait contribué à la 3ème étoile Michelin en 2015.
Agreement puts - Wine: "We tried everything," smiles Maxime."The genepi, the dry white or half-sec, the sweets ...".And nothing really worked with the UFO all in milk.Until our sommellerie team tries rum.Bingo: a daddy's donation, of Philippine origin, not too old, accompanies this dessert with force and delicacy.
Recipe
Milk in all its states, meringue, jam, sorbet, cookies ...
For 6 persons
Steam cookie:
40 g of egg white, 15 g of caster sugar, 25 g of sheep yogurt, 15 g of flour.Mount the whites, tighten them with the sugar.Add the yogurt and flour.Poach half-spheres then cook 10 to 15 min in the steam oven at 90 ° C.
Frosted tile:
100 g sheep yogurt, 55 g of sheep's milk, 55 g of caster sugar.In a high saucepan, boil all the ingredients, spread on Silpat leaf then store in the freezer for 1 hour, detail from the desired shape.
Espuma:
200 g of goat milk, 1 leaf of rehydrated gelatin, 45 g of caster sugar, 200 g of whipping cream.Heat the milk, cream and sugar, incorporate the gelatin, chinise, fill the tank with a 1 -liter siphon, gasine with a cartridge, reserve up to bottom downstairs.
Milk ice cream:
250 cl of whole milk, 2 yolks, 60 g of sugar.Make a custard, pour into a Pacojet bowl or in a sorbetic then reserve in the freezer 24 hours at -24 ° C.
Caramelized hazelnuts (optional):
100 g of hazelnuts, 100 g of sugar, 25 g of water.Roasted the hazelnuts in the oven at 150 ° C for 10 min.Porter the water and sugar at 115 ° C, add the hazelnuts, coat with sugar and caramelize over medium heat, stirring.Cool on silpat.
Milk jam :
Cook a condensed milk box for an hour in a double boiler.
Swiss meringues:
50 g of whites, 100 g of sugar, 2.5 g powder milk.In a bain-marie get the whites and the sugar at 50 ° C, then cool to the mixer with the powder milk, sleep on a plate then dry in the oven at 7 hours C for 3 hours.
Finishing :
Clean a round hollow plate, put a steam cookie in the center, sprinkle with caramelized hazelnuts, sufficient quantity of meringues broken, put a sufficient amount of milk ice cream in the middle, cover with a ball of espuma to give volume,Superimpose the goat yogurt tile, finish with 3 meringues and a milk jam point.Serve the milk jam in a saucier and pour in front of the guests.
Useful information :
La Bouitte3* Michelin, 17/20 Gault & MillauHameau de St Marcel, 73440Saint-Martin de BellevilleTél.: +33479089677https: // www.la-bouitte.com/fr/
Deborah Rudetzki
