Givenchy, Nina Ricci, Schiaparelli: the air of time
By Matthieu Morge Zucconi Posted, Updated
FASHION WEEK - For next winter, these three emblematic Parisian fashion houses are offering daring wardrobes in tune with our times and its obsessions, from the transformation of wardrobes to digital.
At Nina Ricci, the duo Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter are inspired by the spirit of the times... In the literal sense, since the stopper with two crystal doves of the house's legendary perfume is taken up in the form of spectacular earrings. transparent and pendants. And figuratively, at the same time, in the way of tightening their collection (“We immediately thought about how to reduce the number of looks, to adapt them to the period, discarding certain ideas that were “too” glamorous: we wanted to keep our feet on the ground”), to work with the materials (washed nylons very sportswear and traditional woollens) or even to design convertible and transformable clothing to face all situations. From multi-pocket overshirts to loose duffle coats (with an integrated scarf) and suits worn on a kind of hooded K-Way, each garment is designed to blend into an everyday wardrobe. “We always have in mind the principles dear to Ms. Ricci, which is to offer accessible sewing, rooted in reality. It is the concept of this locker room that can be modified as desired”, deciphers Lisi Herrebrugh. Like other designers who see next winter in color, the duo skilfully exploits sugar-coated pinks, absinthe greens, fluorescent yellows and above all, a Klein blue which dynamites the removable collars like the chairs, which have remained empty, in the fashion show. filmed and broadcast last Friday.
Industrial aesthetics
On Sunday, Givenchy gave the Paris La Défense Arena concert hall the air of a deserted nightclub. “We would have liked to parade there in front of an audience. I have always been very inspired by music, which is linked to the way in which I discovered fashion, explains Matthew Williams, its artistic director, who has notably created stage costumes for singer Lady Gaga and collaborated with Kanye. West. I participated in their tours, chaining the concerts in rooms of this size. Illuminated by a beam of light, young women and men march to the martial rhythm of Robert Hood's minimal techno. For those who know the house on avenue George-V through the haute couture of its founder, Hubert de Givenchy, the change of scenery is great.
Admittedly, this second collection from the Californian named in June 2020 revisits codes such as the 4G emblem (in bag clasps, in choker chains and in patterns on tight-fitting tops), black and white or even structured shoulders. But it owes more to the looks of the Jenner and Kardashian sisters (who all posted a photo of themselves in Givenchy on Instagram before the show) than to Audrey Hepburn's little black dress... Between the men hooded in mittens in faux fur the size of boxing gloves and women wrapped in mesh dresses leaving little to the imagination (revealing bare breasts or buttocks through transparency), the wardrobe is spectacular, with a fetishist trend . There remain the very beautiful costumes, both male and female, developed in the label's couture workshops - the industrial-style padlock proposed by Williams as soon as he arrived at the studio replaces the buttons on a jacket. And the new backpack with removable units designed to accommodate, among other things, two water bottles. “Sometimes we carry a lot of things. Sometimes we carry less.” This has the merit of being pragmatic...
Place Vendôme, Daniel Roseberry exults: "I make fashion for people who love fashion!" Since his arrival at Schiaparelli, the Texan has established himself as a worthy heir to the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, the most surrealist of couturiers. “It all started with classic wardrobe shapes: a parka, a denim jacket, a little black dress, a white poplin shirt… I then transformed them, with buttons reminiscent of the house's historic jewels, in the shape of noses, ears, etc. I want to highlight the body as a whole, not just the parts that are sexualized.
A phone case, the opening image of the presentation video released on Monday, represents an oversized golden ear. The kind of opulent, photogenic details that younger generations love. “Everything is thought out for the digital period. I never tell people that they should see the collection in person to measure its impact: I want people to be able to understand it through the screen. For me, that's Schiaparelli! The wiser, in the end, are these flowing “shocking pink” dresses, this fuchsia inseparable from Schiap. “Because it's refreshing, joyful. Right now, people need to smile more than ever!”
