Gender fluid, e-girl, normcore 2.0... The six fashion profiles that will mark the year
The 2010s shook up the codes. Those of the differences between men and women, first, with the emergence of a no gender fashion. Those of luxury, then, renewed by the stylistic contribution of streetwear - a hybridization which panics the counters and makes bank cards heat at the time of globalized click and pay. Finally, it is now impossible for the sector to miss out on the ecological awakening: goodbye fast fashion, hello upcycling. In addition, social networks, new style laboratories, have come to “disrupt” historical trend setters.
An identity under construction
Result: in 2020, the street is more creative, more mixed, more daring. With, for each, the same desire: to be both unique and part of the group. “We are always looking for new identities, analyzes Fanny Parise, anthropologist and researcher associated with the University of Lausanne. Through the consumption of different elements of identity, such as fashion, the individual cobbles together a representation of the world, each piece constituting a facet of his personality and his lifestyle. The sum of these parts will thus build its individuality.
The years to come promise to be fragmented; the fashion tribes, ever more encrypted, constantly “reinitialized”, in particular via digital practices, which accelerate the tempo of trends. For Fanny Parise, the group that invents most of the codes of tomorrow is that of the under 20s. "Adolescents are constantly finding new strategies to stage themselves: codified subcultures, which allow them, particularly through digital technology, to structure microrites of passage to adulthood... often incomprehensible to others." In short, young or less young, we are all the sum of several identities, real or virtual, all versatile and plural. It's up to us, therefore, to tinker with our 2020 look!
1. The new-look normcore
Its panoply: eighties jogging, bucket hat, maxi trainers… Neonormcore creates its wardrobe with revisited basics, with discreet logos. Invented in the second half of the 2000s, the term normcore (for normal and hardcore, or hypernormal) designates an aesthetic movement that takes a step aside from trends. In short, an ultra-worked look no look. The king of the genre is Demna Gvasalia, the artistic director of Balenciaga, who constantly blurs the lines between banal and sublime.
His icons: Eddy de Pretto, who seems to have fallen into the pot when he was little. Let's also mention the young singer Angèle, Hailey Bieber or the artist Aloïse Sauvage, still in an XXL sweatshirt.
His slogan: "I hope we don't see that it cost me 500 euros."
Starter kit: a loose “University of Columbia” flocked hoodie, Reebok Aztrek × Gigi Hadid sneakers, or Balenciaga Tracks.
2. Sexy athleisure
Its panoply: athleisure, a word formed from athletic and leisure (leisure), alone synthesizes the 2010s, which saw the fusion of sportswear and couture. Often in leggings, the athleisure creature does not however do yoga, but rather shopping to satisfy her passion for 12 cm heels and branded bags (Louis Vuitton, Balmain, Jacquemus, Dior). In 2020, she took a sexy turn, assuming a sometimes voluptuous body and more inclusive fashion. For her, naturalness is an abstract notion, and sophistication a vocation.
Her icons: her patron saints are Rihanna, Kim Kardashian and her half-sisters Kendall Jenner and Kylie. With us, she also likes the singer Aya Nakamura, queen of street bling. And in a couture version, Adèle Exarchopoulos.
His slogan: “Too much is never enough.”
Starter kit: Fenty parts, Rihanna's brand at LVMH.
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3. The liberated neo-Parisian
Her panoply: to pick up a baguette, she puts on her floral wrap dress and her hand-knitted short cardigan. On the palate, a signature red. Born on Instagram, this Parisian 2.0 bridges the gap between Arletty and Birkin, between Piaf and Bardot. Deliciously retro, she lives in the 11th arrondissement of Paris, but also in Dubai, Los Angeles or Rennes. Because the postal code doesn't matter, as long as we have the attitude.
Its icons: Lily-Rose Depp embodies it wonderfully, especially for export, between French touch and international aura. Jeanne Damas has made it the center of her brand, Rouje: clothing line, make-up collection and, now, a trendy canteen. In the same vein, welcome to the young Sabina Socol, with the false air of Bardot from the baby doll period, pampered by brands like Lancôme or Marc Jacobs.
Its slogan: “The basket is my it-bag. »
Starter kit: blouse with small Rouje hearts, floral skirt, square-toed sandals from Jacquemus.
4. The e-girl
Its panoply: it looks like it came straight out of a manga. Made up in kawaii fashion, sporting pastel hair, the e-girl (“e” for emo or emocore, i.e. emotional hardcore, emotional violence) is a sort of recycling of the Japanese gothic style of the 1990s, but in a Tik Tok version. It is indeed on this rising social network that the e-girl proliferates. Millions of videos are dedicated to him. To sum up, it's a bit Avril Lavigne with her 2000s rock-skate look, reset in 2020 by digital networks.
Her icons: Margot Robbie as Harley Quinn in the movie Suicide Squad. But especially Billie Eilish, 18-year-old American singer. With her depressed pout, her green hair and her deliberately baroque looks (often by Gucci, Burberry, Prada), she perfectly embodies this protean and inventive tribe.
Its slogan: “What is the wifi code?”
Starter kit: multi-pocket pants by Vetements. Black, of course.
5. The VSCO girl
Its panoply: its name is taken from a digital filter - VSCO, pronounce "visco" - allowing you to edit photos in a happy way. Blonde surfer hair enhanced with a scrunchie, Brazilian bracelets, flashy colors, this new avatar of the "popular high school girl" has emerged on social networks, including Instagram, where occurrences are counted in the millions. Nature but hyperconnected, eco-friendly and sometimes mocked for its superficiality, she never separates from her water bottle and her recycled straw.
Its icons: Millie Bobby Brown, the star of the Stranger Things series, and Emma Chamberlain, a hilarious young American vlogger, spotted by Louis Vuitton (8.6 million subscribers on YouTube). Let's also mention Lana Del Rey or Elle Fanning. Otherwise, the VSCO girl adores Greta Thunberg, but not for her style, of course.
His slogan: “OK boomer!”
Starter kit: a difficult look to adopt after 20 years. Opt for the Birkenstock sandals, which the VSCO girls love. But prefer a creative collab.
6. The gender fluid
Her panoply: between David Bowie and Tilda Swinton, she hesitates. Why choose when you can cover your tracks and take the best? Often flamboyant, the gender fluid of fashion likes politicized, experimental designers, such as Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen (in the heyday), or those who push the cursor all the way towards unisex baroque (Alessandro Michele for Gucci) or in the crossing of genres (Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent).
His icons: Jared Leto, Chris (ex-Christine and the Queens), Charlotte Gainsbourg, Cara Delevingne and especially Kristen Stewart, Chanel muse.
Her slogan: “The sexy, I leave that to the gendered girls.”
Starter kit: a Saint Laurent men's suit.
