Beauty - Hair, Make-up, Face and body care, Shopping, Dossiers, Tips and advice

ifashionclothing
15/02/2023
491 Views

Photo: Courtesy of Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

How do stars manage to sport such luminous skin on the red carpet? The secret lies in well-known makeup products in the world of cinema and photo studios, but which the general public has long ignored: highlighters, illuminators and other illuminators.

The phenomenon of selfies on social networks has largely contributed to their popularity. Influencers have mastered the art of emphasizing – or rather, highlighting – their features with the new generation of shadows and creams that catch the light and enhance their photogenicity.

Our make-up bag accommodates these boxes and bottles, but we can hesitate before spreading an opal or champagne shadow on our cheekbones. We spoke to Atefeh Shojaie, makeup artist from Vancouver, and Tracy Peart, makeup artist and beauty columnist from Toronto, to learn more about these top products.

What is the difference between a highlighter and an illuminator?

“Highlighter is an iridescent or pearly makeup product that reflects light. It is used in a targeted way on areas that we want to bring out,” says Atefeh Shojaie. This can be the cheekbones, the brow bone, the bridge of the nose or the cupid's bow (the double curve of the upper lip). Without forgetting the shoulders and collarbones, when you wear a neckline and you have the festive mood.

The important thing to remember: the point of this makeup is to catch the light, not to glow or shine like a disco ball.

The illuminator (also called illuminator, complexion enhancer or complexion beautifier) gives radiance to the entire face. It is more of a luminous veil, which contains less reflective pigments than the highlighter. Note that some brands incorrectly use the term “illuminator” to designate a highlighter.

Where does their shine come from?

Mica is the main mineral used to add shimmer to cosmetics. This ingredient is at the heart of a controversy: it comes from mines in India and Madagascar, in which children work at the risk of their lives, for a pittance.

Beauty - Hair, Makeup, Body Care face and body, Shopping, Folders, Tips and advice

Major companies like the L’Oréal group and Estée Lauder are committed to ensuring traceability, in order to make the supply chain more ethical. British brand Lush, for its part, preferred lab-made mica.

In what form do we find these products?

Highlighters come in liquid, creamy or powder form. "Oily skin should opt for a powder version, which stays in place longer," advises Tracy Peart. Liquid and creamy highlighters work well for dry skin and smooth out uneven texture, notes Atefeh Shojaie.

The illuminators are available in foundations, serums, moisturizers… You can add a few drops of illuminator to a day cream or a foundation, for a more homogeneous diffusion.

What is the best way to apply highlighter?

A sponge (Beautyblender type) is useful for liquid or creamy highlighters. It's important to avoid back-and-forth movements that could leave demarcations, according to Tracy Peart. “I apply make-up in delicate dabs,” she explains. For best results, dampen the sponge with water and remove excess liquid with a paper towel.

For the powder highlighter, use a soft, fluffy brush that you lightly sweep over the skin. For narrower areas, such as the brow bone or Cupid's bow, it is better to use a small eye shadow brush, which allows for greater precision. Less skilled hands will be more comfortable with sticks, easier to blend on the reliefs.

What are the effects of a highlighter on the features?

In the inner corner of the eye: the touch of light refreshes the eyes. On the brow bone: it defines the line of the eyebrows and “opens” the eyes. On the bridge of the nose: it makes the nose appear narrower. On Cupid's bow: the upper lip looks fuller.

Should we apply highlighter before or after foundation?

Reserve it for the final touch, after foundation and blush.

Do you need a highlighter if you already wear blush?

“Blush adds color to the skin. Its purpose is to give a good-looking effect,” explains Tracy Peart. Like when you turn pink after a breath of fresh air.

As for the highlighter, it brings out a line, like a flash. These two products complement each other, although they have different functions. To save a gesture (and dollars), one can choose to use only a shimmering blush, which will color the cheeks while reflecting the light.

How to determine the right color of highlighter for our complexion?

For a natural effect, we choose a shade a little paler than the skin. In cases of very light complexion, pink, pearly or opalescent tones are preferred. A peach or golden highlighter is appropriate for medium skin tones, while darker skin tones prefer golden, bronze or copper undertones.

What to do if the application has been a little forced?

To remove the excess powder, take a clean brush and dust. This is what Atefeh Shojaie advises. To remove excess liquid or cream highlighter, wipe with a clean, slightly dampened sponge. Another solution: add a little compact or setting powder on top.