Repainting the earthenware of a bathroom - Côté Maison
No need to break all the old tiles to change the decor: an undercoat and a paint, both "special tiles" can produce a striking effect. Painting the faience of a bathroom, however, involves special precautions in the choice and application of coatings. Manual.
Repainting the faience of a bathroom requires a few precautions before starting. Côté Maison helps you revamp the tiling of your bathroom.
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Repainting earthenware: choosing the right products
To repaint the tiles in the bathroom, we choose specific "wet rooms" products, designed to resist condensation and prevent the development of mold or saltpetre. Some contain fungicides to fight mold by destroying moss and fungus. But it is preferable to treat the causes of humidity (insufficient ventilation, infiltrations, leaks, etc.) rather than masking them, otherwise the paint will soon flake off.
To paint earthenware, you can apply either: a resin; a very resistant "special tiling" paint; a classic paint for a wider range of choices, but with the obligation to add a specific undercoat.
To paint the tiles in the bathroom, choose a special floor paint, recommended for its resistance and waterproof qualities. Note that it is not suitable for submerged surfaces such as the tiled floor of a walk-in shower.
The paint for special bathroom wall tiles can be applied to any type of vertical tiled support: it can be used on the apron of the bath, but not on the horizontal edge. Remember to remove the silicone seals from the bathtub and redo them once the paint has dried.
With a multi-media paint, you can paint the bathroom tiles and small furniture. The decorative advantage: matching colors from the same color chart.
For the finish of a tile paint in the bathroom, only one alternative: satin or gloss. Both are washable and washable, so easy to maintain. Gloss reflects light better, but will be tough on substrate defects, runs, etc. Satin finishes are best suited for painting earthenware.
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Rules for painting bathroom tiles
- Wash the surface to be painted, rid it of all traces of limestone (white vinegar and baking soda work wonders!), scrape the black stains from the joints. Finish by degreasing with a cloth soaked in acetone.
- Ventilate well before, during and after the work, in order to always work on perfectly dry surfaces, and to avoid inhaling certain toxic components found in paints ("solvent phase").
- Protect the furniture, and the floor in the case of a mural.
- Delimit the tiling to be painted using adhesive tape.
- Sand with fine sandpaper to facilitate adhesion of the coating.
- In the case of a classic paint, start with an undercoat. Otherwise, apply the paint directly to the tiling: brush the edges with a repainting brush, then cover with a lacquer roller, progressing in small areas. On the resin, complete with a varnish.
Respect the intermediate drying stages: count 24 hours per layer, then several days before being able to use the part under normal conditions.
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