Kitchen utensils - teflon, plastics, silicone, melamine… What materials favor?- Tips - UFC -Que Choisir

Teflon in all its forms

Sixty years ago, Teflon non-stick coating conquered many kitchens. Until one of its components, perfluoro-octanoic acid (PFOA), proved dangerous: studies, particularly in rats, revealed enlargement of the liver, as well as a carcinogenic action in case of high dose or chronic exposure.

PFOA prohibited since July 2020

In the kitchen, PFOA residues can be released when the utensil is heated above 360°C, which can happen if a pan is left empty on fire, for example. But exposure via such a situation is low, and, in 2009, the National Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health Safety (Anses) deemed the risk to consumer health "negligible". .

PFOA is nevertheless suspected of being carcinogenic, immunotoxic and endocrine disruptor. It is also harmful to the environment. In 2013, the European Chemicals Agency (Echa) added it to its list of substances of very high concern. The manufacture and marketing of PFOA as a substance has finally been banned in the European Union since July 4, 2020.

Replaced, but by what?

In fact, manufacturers of non-stick coatings began in 2006 to eliminate PFOA. And, in fact, no analysis carried out by Que Choisir or its European partners since 2011 on stoves has detected its presence.

PFOA has been replaced by other chemical products, such as GenX polymers or PFBS (perfluorobutane sulphonic acid) and its salts… whose harmlessness nevertheless raises questions: Echa has also listed them on the summer 2019 on its list of substances of very high concern. The reports supporting these decisions indeed indicate that the GenX compounds induce tumors of the liver, pancreas and testes in particular in rats subjected to chronic exposure, and that they are suspected of being toxic to the liver, kidneys, blood cells and the immune system in humans. PFBS and its salts are said to be toxic, in particular for the kidneys and the thyroid.

Should we ban Teflon from the kitchen?

Without panicking unduly, it is not extravagant to adopt a few precautions…

The risks of exposure to GenX and PFBS via pots, pans and other casseroles are not yet clearly identified. In 2011, Que Choisir tests on pans coated with PFOA nonstick did not detect any transfer of the substance to food, even on pans that were worn out and heated for a long time – which is rather reassuring. As a precaution, however, it is advisable not to use scratched or damaged cooking containers, which are then likely to let undesirable substances escape more easily – PFOA, GenX, aluminium, etc.

There was a time when it was recommended to replace Teflon with ceramic, which is less durable, but supposedly less dangerous. However, this coating suffers from the vagueness maintained by manufacturers as to its composition: if they claim that it is mainly silica and alcoholic binders, they are not obliged to reveal the nature of their alloys. The potential health risks associated with these are therefore unknown.

What about other materials?

They have undeniable advantages, but pay attention to the coating, the ease of use and… the price.

Aluminum and stainless steel (which contains nickel) remain the basic materials for non-stick pans. Their non-stick coating prevents the migration of metals. It is therefore advisable to no longer use old aluminum or stainless steel containers that are not or poorly coated.

Cast iron, a well-identified material, resistant and scratchproof, has many advantages. But it is very expensive (even if its incomparable longevity can compensate for the investment), heavy, must be washed without detergent, oiled after each use, etc. Enamelled cast iron cookware is easier to maintain.

Copper is another, again expensive, alternative. But it can migrate, even in minute doses, into food. This is why copper pans are now most often covered with tin or even stainless steel. In the event of scratches, you can have the tin coating restored or the pan replaced.

Iron and steel, quite safe and popular with professionals, must be seasoned and, like cast iron, can only withstand water. They are incompatible with acid preparations (tomato, lemon, wine, etc.), which risk altering the seasoning.

Plastics and silicone: beware of heat

Silicone molds and polyamide accessories have invaded our kitchens: light and easy to clean, they are appealing. But be careful to use them properly.

Beware of spoons, spatulas and whisks!

In the 2010s, there were concerns about the presence of primary aromatic amines (PAAs), which are extremely harmful to health (major neurotoxicity and hematotoxicity, in particular), in certain black Nylon utensils. By the end of 2011, customs had seized more than 55,000 utensils releasing prohibited AAPs. However, Que Choisir tests in 2013 were rather reassuring.

In September 2019, it was the BfR, the German equivalent of ANSES, which warned against spoons, spatulas and other whisks made of polyamide (from which Nylon is made). The institute estimates that the acceptable toxicological threshold for ingesting the oligomers of these polyamides is 5 mg/kg of food. However, 10 of the 33 utensils tested by the BfR released more at 70°C.

If you use spatulas and other plastic spoons, the precautionary principle recommends not prolonging food contact with such utensils, a fortiori at high temperature (above 70°C). Do not let them heat up in pots, pots and pans while your dishes are cooking. And prefer wood.

Moulds to watch out for

Flexible, non-stick, silicone molds are undeniably practical. But the laboratories have an eye on them...

Silicone is not a plastic. It is a polymer derived from silicon, an ore used in the composition of silica (from which glass is derived). For it to acquire its particular texture, a catalyst is needed: peroxide (cheap) or platinum (more expensive). Gold :

In 2005, a survey by the DGCCRF showed that 29% of silicone utensils and containers tested exceeded the authorized limit content (0.5%) of free volatile organic matter (MOVL), a group of chemical molecules that are not very recommended for health. If other tests, in particular by Que Choisir in 2013 and the DGCCRF in 2016, attested to a marked improvement, as a precautionary measure, prefer 100% platinum silicone and check the presence of the "certificate of conformity for contactability food ". Moreover, the DGCCRF having noted a greater migration during the first cooking, it is advisable to carry out a first use empty, with a little oil.

Plastic containers, to be handled with care

To reheat food in the microwave, the safest container is glass. Plastic can also be used, provided that the container is intended for this purpose. Otherwise, the heat may migrate unwanted compounds from the plastic into the food. Reading the labels and the “microwave” logo is the best way to make sure the container is compatible.

An eye on melamine tableware

Light, unbreakable (or almost), allowing all colorful fantasies, melamine is a material widely used for tableware (plates, bowls, mugs, cups, cutlery, etc.). Unfortunately, it is not as "inert" as it should be.

The manufacturing process of melamine incorporates formaldehyde, a problematic substance and carcinogen by inhalation. If this is less of a concern by ingestion, the regulatory migration threshold is set at 15 mg/kg of food.

In 2013, Que Choisir tests on 24 utensils were reassuring. On the other hand, a 2016 Spanish study of 18 articles concluded that the limit was exceeded in 56% of cases.

Tip: since migration is much lower below 70°C, be careful not to heat melamine utensils above this temperature (so not in the microwave, in particular).

Furthermore, because of its colorful and shiny appeal, melamine is commonly used for tableware intended for children and even babies. For the reasons mentioned, it is better to avoid it for this young audience.