Everything about the Cherbourg umbrella: Current Woman Le Mag Path 2 645DBCB3-7979-441A-BA4B-98E7BF17E1BE 1785B508-2A96-4CF5-AA87-79B0FE0441BF

ifashionclothing
17/10/2022
512 Views

""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""When two Cherbourg umbrella carriers meet in the street, a kind of collusion is created between lovers of quality objects,"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" smiles Charles Yvon.The 30-year-old is proud of the reputation of the company founded by his father, Jean-Pierre Yvon, in 1986.He took over the reins in 2018.Two years later, he changed the name, renamed the real Cherbourg in the umbrella of Cherbourg.He also stylized the embroidered logo with the weapons of the city which makes it immediately recognizable.And that's all.

The fundamentals enacted by Jean-Pierre Yvon, who himself drew the first model, with this particular curve that resists strong winds, remain.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""He put the bar of very high quality.It's a family thing.The Yvon have been manufacturers in father's leathers in son in Cherbourg since 1800, suppliers of the great Parisian saddles.We make solid, durable.I call it common sense.I really believe that the time of the disposable umbrella - which breaks at the slightest gale, of which no element is recycled and which is a technological and ecological disaster - is over.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

Family heritage

The Cherbourg umbrella is not only guaranteed for two years, but the workshop provides after-sales service for life, even for a tiny hitch. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Un parapluie doit durer. C’est génial quand la grand-mère le transmet au petit-fils !"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" Charles Yvon a mûrement réfléchi le projet de devenir patron à son tour.He studied economics and management, then marketing, communication and management.He was a seller in the two brand's two shops in Cherbourg, and introduced himself to the workshop gestures at the workshop.Before his father retired, he assisted it for three years. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""La résistance des matériaux m’a toujours passionné.I have met a lot of mechanical engineers, and visited factories to draw inspiration from their manufacturing processes.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

After the anti -shift - the most resistant model not only of the range but also in the world, which can take a wind of force 12 in its titanium mast and its fiberglass whales, or 155 km/hour, the intensity of'A hurricane - they developed the parapactum, released in 2011.This third type umbrella is used by the Elysée security services. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""On a cherché à savoir jusqu’où pouvait aller la résistance d’un parapluie avant de nous demander qui pouvait avoir besoin d’un tel modèle.The answer was: bodyguards.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""With its 2.5 kg that resist attack dogs, projectiles and even blades, the parapactum was ordered by several foreign countries.

Made like racing boats

Ces """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Formule 1"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" ont été testées à la soufflerie de l’Institut aérotechnique de Saint-Cyr-l’École, près de Versailles.Where cyclists in preparation for the Olympic Games or the ultra-medalist Véliplanchist Antoine Albeau refine their aerodynamics.Charles Yvon likes to compare his umbrellas to ships. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Non seulement en fabrication, nous parlons nous aussi de voile, de mât et d’accastillage, mais j’ai aussi découvert qu’empiriquement, en utilisant le titane, le carbone et certains modes d’assemblage, nous avions reproduit les techniques de construction des bateaux de course !"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" Cet attrait pour la mer, en plein port militaire, a donné lieu au printemps dernier à un partenariat avec la Marine nationale pour une édition spéciale de l’Antibourrasque, brodée d’une ancre blanche.

At the same time, the brand affixed to another model with a tricolor strap the blue thistle of the national work of the Blueberry of France;10 % of the benefits of its sale are donated to the victims of war and acts of terrorism. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Un parapluie est un important symbole de protection"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""", avance Charles Yvon.The company's turnover jumped approximately 60 % since it took it.He hopes to further develop his international sales, Asia, Africa and South America.Yet his projects are more than ever anchored in its Cotentin territory, where it has its suppliers, among others manufacturers of handles or displays. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Pendant la pandémie, j’ai vu des usines à l’arrêt faute de livraisons.But we have never stopped working.The local is the future.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

A regional anchoring

In 2014, the workshop left Tourlaville, on the outskirts of Cherbourg, to settle in the heart of the city, in the former premises of the Banque de France, a vast building of 1900, Quai Alexandre III against the port.Christine Brion, the sixties Guillerette, was delighted.This outstanding seamstress, born in Cherbourg, made her debut in the company in 1996 as a manufacturer. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Le savoir-faire principal quand on veut faire un parapluie c’est de bien coudre.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""In 2016, she came to the workshop chef, responsible for the 400 umbrellas manufactured each week by eleven people, sometimes up to 600 during the holiday season.With Charles Yvon, she developed the children's model, the last offspring of the range released in May, which the workshop designed entirely, from prototypes to the final result.The company does not have design studio, design office, 3D printer.Everything is created in vivo.

""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Zero fault, zero defect""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

Christine Brion's day begins with the folding, with her team, of the umbrellas made the day before.Retanted steam, they spent the night drying open, placed on the ground or hung on threads on the ceiling. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Quand on arrive, c’est très joli, toutes ces couleurs.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Fold this big bouquet takes an hour.You have to give each part its final central fold. Plus de soixante-dix étapes de fabrication manuelles auront été nécessaires avant d’arriver à ce stade, avec pour mot d’ordre """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""zéro faute, zéro défaut"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""". """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Il faut au moins deux ans pour les maîtriser, avertit la cheffe d’atelier.When you are so dried, you can make an umbrella in an hour.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

It all starts with the triangles cutting of a waterproofed polyester taffeta with beautiful outfit, which dries quickly and does not get lost.These triangles form the eight sides of the umbrella, sewn to constitute the sail, the canvas of the umbrella that is fixed on the whales.Cherbourg's arms embroidery is made by an ultra-perforated machine whose craftsmen have learned to detect the slightest thread of thread.

Luxury finishes

Once all the sections sewn, comes the most delicate operation: that of the peripheral hem, seven millimeters of canvas border nicely rolled in the manner of a luxury scarf, which acts as an anti -returnment cage. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Quand nous faisons visiter l’atelier, j’entends des gens dire que c’est facile à faire, mais c’est justement l’opération la plus difficile. Il faut être très habile pour bien tenir le tissu sans prendre trop de matière, sinon le parapluie ne peut pas s’ouvrir !"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" Puis c’est la fixation du mât du parapluie, le collage de la poignée en châtaignier, charme ou érable, et l’accastillage, l’ajout d’un cône métallique au sommet du mât pour cacher l’œillet formé par les extrémités des huit pans réunis, mais aussi d’une bague et d’une plaque décoratives sur le manche, parfois dorées à l’or 18 carats. Le contrôle qualité de Christine Brion est impitoyable : """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Une poignée éraflée, un ourlet pas droit, une tache sur le tissu, et on recommence tout.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

Après cinq ans à encadrer son équipe, elle a décidé de prendre sa retraite avec une impression de mission accomplie : """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Je suis contente d’avoir pu suivre Charles Yvon.He completely changed the organization of the house, increased production and exports.I knew how to adapt, and that, I am very proud of it.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

Manufacture The Cherbourg Umbrella.22, Quai Alexandre III, 50100 Cherbourg-en-Cotentin.Such.: 02 33 93 66 60.www.umbrellaburg.com

From cinema to reality

The film Les Umbluies de Cherbourg, Palme d'Or at the Cannes Film Festival in 1964, was shot by Jacques Demy in 1962 in Cherbourg.For the inhabitants of the city, it was an event.Jean-Pierre Yvon, barely adolescent at the time, was amazed.Later, he had the idea of giving his city the manufacture of umbrellas that have become stars.The company, taken up by his son, must have hoisted the accessory to the top of the range, like a bag or a pen, as well as its marketing in Japan where Jacques Demy is an icon.The brand achieves 5 % of its turnover there.

Always under the spotlight

Cherbourg umbrellas have decidedly a cinematographic aura.The house is a partner of Christian Duguay's latest film with Carole Bouquet, Mélanie Laurent and Pio Marmaï.Storm, shot in Cherbourg in May, tells a family story against the backdrop of horse racing.Carole Bouquet's red anti -shift deceases the screen.

Hip hop in the rain

In 2017, the workshops delivered in extremis several unpublished models, gold and silver color, for the clip of the rain, the duo of Orelsan and Stromae.Charles Yvon personally put their look to the point with Orelsan, who claims like him his attachment to Normandy.Despite the buzz, the creations could not be marketed, for lack of sufficient sealing outside the set of shooting. """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""Dans les maisons cherbourgeoises, il y en a quatre ou cinq à l’entrée.We choose the anti -shift in large wind or a folding model to do the market without clutching.""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

Shadow

If the umbrella dates back to Mesopotamia, 4,000 years ago, the appearance of the umbrella is more recent.During the Renaissance, the Silk of the Parkle which protects from the Sun is replaced by a waxed canvas to shelter the rain.In 1718, the umbrella entered the dictionary of the French Academy, defined as a fashionable curiosity, an accessory intended for women.Passing through Paris, around 1750, the great traveler and English trader Jonas Hanway invested himself and does not hesitate to wear it despite the mockery of the Londoners.The use of the umbrella spreads in English, then European aristocratic society, in men as in women, and gradually becomes democratized.In France, the capital of the umbrella is Aurillac, in Cantal, where hawkers have sold it since the 19th century.The factories of the city still manufacture 70,000 per year.

Article published in the current woman issue Escapades n ° 1 July-August 2021